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When I looked at all the wiring diagrams and found that all of the buttons for VDC and DCCD are grounded when pressed, I decided to create a device that would monitor each button for a press and record it. When the device starts up(car turns on), it repeats those button presses by grounding the wires to each button. VDC and DCCD was easy because of this system. SI-Drive, however, took some digging and probing. If you read the Service Manual about SI-Drive it talks about the CAN bus and does not give any real info except for resistance values for Sport, Sport Sharp, and Intelligent mode. I had to probe the DCCD/SI-Drive wire harness for the SI-Drive wires because they are not even listed in the wiring diagrams, freaking annoying . Si-Drive uses one wire with varying resistance to determine its mode of operation, one wire, three buttons.
Once I had pin outs for everything and knew how it worked, I picked a micro controller that had a suitable number of I/O pins and the features I needed. Created a PCB layout that would fit into an enclosure I liked and created the board in the picture I posted by hand using acid etching methods. It took about three weeks to code the micro controller and work out all the bugs.
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I just installed mine. It took me about an hour, maybe an hour and a half. My comments and things that I noted that weren't in the instructions:
- Undoing the screws in the console box (under the arm rest) is better done with a 10 mm socket than a Phillips screwdriver to avoid stripping the head
- My DCCD AUTO- wire is blue/yellow also, but the car is a 2010, not 2011 (Canadian Domestic Model if it matters)
- If you were going to solder instead of using the posi-taps, it'd be easier to do it all on the SWITCH side of the DCCD/SI connector rather than on the side that goes to the dashboard. The wire on the switch side is much longer, not tied down, and with an easily removable sheath. Of course, the wire colors would be all different. The posi-taps could be used here but then there's not a lot of room for them when you put the harness back where it came from.
- If the module is stored in the recommended location, then I find that the harness going to the DCCD/SI buttons is too long, and the harness going to the VDC switch is too short. By the time I found this out I had already reinstalled the center console so I had to open everything back up again. I stored my module below the left side of the parking brake (below the bottom of the boot), sandwiched in between the body of the car and the fabric covering (where I always drop my keys and coins, dammit).
- Zip ties provided were not long enough for tying the harnesses to other harnesses in the center console, or to tie the VDC connector back to the center console (had to break the black push-fit connector to get it out)
- The VDC harness goes out behind and then under the parking brake and along the center console; I just stuffed it under the fabric and pushed it up under the center console. I routed it all the way past the front of the center console close to the gas pedal and then to the left over to the fuse box area.
- Didn't need to use a putty knife to remove the instrument panel side cover (in fact, I couldn't even find a place to stick one). If you stick your finger under the bottom and pull, then everything just pops off.
- Top screw of instrument panel side cover strips its plastic threads very easily!! Do not overtighten.
- Didn't need to disconnect all the non-VDC harnesses from the instrument panel lower cover, I just did the VDC one and then let the panel hang from the rest of them.
Anyway, all went smoothly other than the stripped screw. I might also go back and wrap the module in the bubble wrap it was shipped in, just to minimize any potential vibration damage.